Breaker bar or long pipe for long handled ratchet Torque wrench JB Weld epoxy This is not a job for the novice car owner. But if you have already completed fairly complex modifications on your Accord, this is certainly a job you can tackle yourself, saving you from expensive labor costs in the process. If you are not mechanically inclined or are uncomfortable with this big DIY job, consider getting it done by a professional. Step 1 — Remove the battery and interior Disconnect the negative terminal black of the battery, and then the positive terminal red. Unscrew the bracket securing the battery to the tray. Remove the battery, and unscrew the tray to remove it as well.
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Breaker bar or long pipe for long handled ratchet Torque wrench JB Weld epoxy This is not a job for the novice car owner. But if you have already completed fairly complex modifications on your Accord, this is certainly a job you can tackle yourself, saving you from expensive labor costs in the process.
If you are not mechanically inclined or are uncomfortable with this big DIY job, consider getting it done by a professional. Step 1 — Remove the battery and interior Disconnect the negative terminal black of the battery, and then the positive terminal red. Unscrew the bracket securing the battery to the tray. Remove the battery, and unscrew the tray to remove it as well. Several components must be removed from the interior, which includes a combination of plastic pop-rivets, Phillips head screws, and some bolts.
Begin your removal with the armrest console, the cup holder, and the center console bezel. Remember to keep track of your screws and where it belongs. Remove the steering column plastic cover. Remove the plastic boot-cover at the rear foot of the seat. Remove 14mm bolts from the rear brackets.
Slide the seat forward. Remove the plastic boot-cover at the front foot of the seat. Remove 14mm bolts from the front brackets. Pull it out, and set aside the front seat.
Figure 1. Remove bolts from the seat brackets. Place the hydraulic floor jacks directly under the front pinch welds of the car. Lift the car, and then set it down on jack stands. Unbolt the shield, and remove the ECU. Figure 2. Jack up the front end only. Figure 3.
Pull the intake tube up and out of the engine bay. Then, set it aside. Slide a catch pan under the drain plug of the automatic transmission oil pan. Unbolt the plug to drain all of the transmission fluid. Figure 4. Remove hose clamps highlighted in yellow of the air intake assembly. Figure 5. Remove the drain plug circled in red from the automatic transmission oil pan. Step 4 — Remove the wheels and axle nut Remove the two front wheels.
Have a friend step on the brakes, while you remove the axle nut with a socket wrench. The axle nut is torqued very high—about ft lbs. If necessary, use a breaker breaker bar or an old-fashioned pipe over the handle of your ratchet to gain extra leverage. Figure 6. Use breaker bar to remove the axle nut. Step 5 — Remove the lower ball joint Remove the cotter pin and 17mm castle nut of the the lower ball joint.
Place the floor jack under the knuckle, and raise it up until the ball joint pops out. Then, remove the axle. Figure 7. Remove castle nut highlighted in yellow from the lower ball joint. Step 6 — Remove axles from the transmission Insert a large flat head screwdriver in between the axle and the transmission to pry them apart. The axle should pop right out. Be sure to keep pressure on both ends of the axles, so the CV joints do not come apart.
Pull the axle out the rest of the way. This is the part of the suspension right under the transmission. Do not loosen or damage the bushings or shims. Figure 8. Step 7 — Remove the transmission wire harnesses Remove all the wire harnesses on and around the transmission such as the vehicle speed sensor.
Set them aside. Do not remove or disconnect any of the vacuum lines. Figure 9. Unplug the VSS and surrounding connectors. Step 8 — Remove automatic transmission components Several parts are not needed for the 5-speed manual transmission.
These parts can be removed: Remove the shift cable because this will be replaced with the manual cables. Remove the torque converter cover. Disconnect the transmission hose from the radiator, and reconnect it to the radiator to create a loop. Unbolt the catalytic converter heat shield to gain access to the automatic shifter assembly. Figure Accord automatic transmission and torque converter removed.
Step 9 — Drop the transmission Gain assistance from a friend as this is one of the more difficult steps. The transmission is very heavy, so great care must be taken to lower it safely.
Using the hydraulic jack as a support is a good idea. Place the floor jack in position under the transmission to hold it, and then lower it. Place the floor jack under the transmission, and tightly secure it with jack clamps.
Use your ratchet and socket to remove the eight bolts holding the torque converter to the flex plate. Only one to two bolts can be removed at a time since the transmission crank must be turned to reveal one or two more bolts.
Remove the bell housing bolts from both sides of transmission and engine. This will free the transmission mount. You may have to remove the oil filter to reach all of the bolts. Lower and remove the transmission. Then, remove the eight 17mm bolts holding the flex plate to the engine block.
Step 10 — Adjust the transmission mounts There are two paths to take with this step. The automatic transmission mount is not located in the same location as where the 5-speed transmission mount will be located. Using the same mount will cause undue stress on the axle, which will eventually lead to snapped axles. The two options are: Purchase a 5-speed manual transmission mount from Honda. Cut off the automatic mount weld, and re-weld the manual mount to the correct place on the bracket.
Drill a new hole in the transmission bracket in the location of the small dimple located above and to the left of the automatic transmission hole.
This step focuses on option 2 as most do not have access to a MIG welder to follow option 1. Set the manual transmission onto the floor jack, and secure it with jack clamps. Line the transmission straight with the engine; it should be leveled and true where the dimple is located.
Mark the location of the dimple on the transmission bracket, and use a six inch, 12mm drill bit do drill in a new hole. This option allows you to use the same rear engine bolts. Even though the 5-speed manual transmission has an extra hole for an extra bolt, it is not necessary to use.
Step 11 — Install the clutch pedal assembly Drill three holes through the firewall to install the master clutch cylinder mounting studs and the large center plunger. This will require the use of two nuts to install the cabin side mounting studs, which act as spacer. The automatic transmission firewall is flat, so this adjustment must be made.
A manual transmission firewall has those spacer nuts pre-mounted and welded to the firewall. You will also need a Dremel tool to clean up the large plunger hole to create a nice fit.
The most important part of this step is to securely bolt and mount the top of the clutch assembly, which is located to the top of the firewall, under the windshield, and behind the wiper motor. This stiffens up the assembly, and prevents the brackets from bending or warping when the clutch pedal is depressed. Lastly, remove the wiper covers.
Then, place a 1 to 1. Use lock washers and lock nuts to secure this connection. Drill mounting bolts for the clutch master cylinder. Step 12 — Install the new brake pedal There are two methods to install the new brake assembly. Depending upon which generation Accord brake pedal you use, there will be some slight adjustments that must be made to the replacement brake pedal before you can install it.
Honda Accord 1991 Workshop Manual PDF
Engine Interior The fourth-generation Accord, introduced on the "CB" chassis, was unveiled in for the model year. For the first time a 3-door hatchback was no longer available internationally. This was one of the first U. The growing popularity of the Accord internationally was evident in the ever-increasing dimensions, which now matched almost exactly with the first-generation Legend introduced in